I use Google Sync/Google Calendar to get in between iCal and my BlackBerry. I get wireless calendar sync with no problems. I don't use Google contacts as I've always had issues with dupes and formatting. For contacts I just rely on a local sync.
Google has great step-by-step directions on how to get it up and running. Took about 5 minutes. There is a delay in the syncing process of anywhere from 15 minutes to over an hour, but it does work. Great alternative to a hosted BES solution if you don't need all the features BES and don't like the added price.